In extraordinarily simple terms, there are 3 main plans used. You must be agile enough to switch techniques instantly as the action of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves building a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you can achieve, to block in your competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable course of action at the start of the game. You can create the wall anyplace between your 11-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your challenger on the bar. e.g., if your challenger rolls an early two and moves one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you are able to play six/one 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your challenger is then in serious dire straits seeing that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have two or more pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor is a point occupied by at least two of your pieces.) It needs to be played when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your circumstances. The better locations for anchor spots are near your competitor’s smaller points and also on adjacent points or with one point separating them. Timing is crucial for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no point having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then forced to dismantle this right away, while your challenger is shifting their pieces home, seeing that you don’t have other extra pieces to shift! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up until your challenger provides you a chance to hit, so it may be an excellent idea to attempt and get your opposer to get them in this case!