In exceptionally general terms, there are 3 basic plans employed. You want to be agile enough to hop between game plans instantly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves assembling a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at least as thick as you can manage, to block in your competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable strategy at the start of the match. You can create the wall anywhere between your 11-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This involves locking your home board as quickly as as you can while keeping your opposer on the bar. i.e., if your opposer rolls an early two and shifts one checker from your one-point to your 3-point and you then roll a five-five, you will be able to play six/one 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your opponent is now in serious calamity considering that they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have 2 or higher anchors in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point occupied by at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It would be played when you are significantly behind as this strategy greatly improves your opportunities. The better areas for anchor spots are towards your opponent’s lower points and either on adjacent points or with one point in between. Timing is integral for a competent backgame: besides, there’s no reason having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to dismantle this straight away, while your challenger is getting their checkers home, considering that you do not have other spare pieces to shift! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you can maintain your position up till your challenger gives you a chance to hit, so it will be a great idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this case!