In astonishingly simple terms, there are 3 main game plans employed. You need to be agile enough to switch tactics quickly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of assembling a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as thick as you are able to manage, to block in the competitor’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is judged to be the most acceptable strategy at the start of the game. You can build the wall anywhere between your 11-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match continues.
The Blitz
This involves locking your home board as quick as as you can while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your competitor tosses an early 2 and moves one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you are able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three 8/3. Your opponent is then in serious calamity seeing that they have two checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have 2 or higher checkers in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor is a point occupied by at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It should be played when you are significantly behind as it greatly improves your opportunities. The strongest locations for anchor spots are close to your competitor’s lower points and either on adjoining points or with one point separating them. Timing is crucial for a competent backgame: after all, there is no reason having 2 nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then forced to break apart this right away, while your opponent is getting their checkers home, taking into account that you do not have any other extra pieces to move! In this situation, it’s more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you can maintain your position up until your opponent gives you an opportunity to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to try and get your opponent to hit them in this case!