In astonishingly simple terms, there are 3 main game plans used. You want to be able to switch game plans instantly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This is comprised of creating a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you are able to manage, to block in the competitor’s checkers that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable course of action at the start of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace between your eleven-point and your 2-point and then move it into your home board as the match progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of closing your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your opposer tosses an early two and shifts one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a five-five, you are able to play six/one 6/1 eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is now in serious dire straits considering that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have 2 or more pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a position filled by at least 2 of your checkers.) It should be employed when you are significantly behind as this plan greatly improves your chances. The better locations for anchors are near your opponent’s smaller points and also on abutting points or with one point in between. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: besides, there is no reason having 2 nice anchors and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then forced to dismantle this straight away, while your opposer is moving their checkers home, considering that you do not have any other extra checkers to shift! In this case, it is better to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position up until your competitor provides you a chance to hit, so it can be a wonderful idea to try and get your opposer to hit them in this case!